Steak N’ Shake opened it’s first franchise in NYC last week; on 53rd and Broadway next to the Ed Sullivan theater, where they currently tape the Letterman Show. As fate would have it, I was hired in December by Chicago City Limits, which operates on 53rd between 8th and 9th Avenue. In the 11 days since it’s opened, I’ve had 3 cups of chili at $3.37 per cup. Some people might think this is strange (and potentially off-putting) behavior, and it likely is, but nostalgia is a major factor.
My first job was as a waiter at Steak N’ Shake in Jefferson City, MO. I had recently turned 16 and it was expected that I would work for my half-use of a shitty ’88 Chevy Cavalier that I shared with my step-dad. At the time I was hired, I sported a tiny hoop earring and wore gelled hair and generally made poor use of myself; it was the perfect job for the idiot I was at the time.
The dominant memory of working there is occupied with hateful waitresses, most of whom fit a profile: late 20s/early 30s/creeping early on 40. Always looked older than they were. They almost always had a kid, but did not live with the father-of-kid; for various of reasons but usually they had never married or already divorced. They all seemed to have a newish car that came with crippling monthly payments, forcing them to work 45-55 hours a week to make ends meet. They all looked the same version of faded attractive with slightly widened hips and emerging wrinkles and smoker’s teeth. These facts pissed them off to no end.
When they were in rare good moods, these waitresses were quasi-pleasant human beings. They thought I was cute and funny in my third-tier damaged-goods kind of way, and so they treated me better than the subcutaneous kitchen and dishwashing cretins that stayed back-of-house. But when it got busy, or when they got bad tips, (which was (is?) always at Steak N’ Shake) the fangs and claws bared and the venom and bile flowed. Quick to snap and command and snarl, they did the work necessary to maintain the ship and often while short-staffed. But they were just as quick to abandon one another and snipe and get-in-faces over nothing at all, the stress boiling over and redirected at those experiencing the same stress.
And so for the first 6 months of my first job, I made shitty tips and wore my red bow tie and bore the wrath of the waitresses. When it came time to clean the bathrooms before checking out (24 hour restaurant, of course), I would take longer than necessary, escaping in the clean stillness of 50s/60s rock music and running an extra 8th of an hour on my timesheet (at 3.15/hr). When my friends would come into the restaurant, I was pretty humiliated, but accepted it as my lot as working-class/barely-above-lower-class. I would try to act like a big shot and give them free shakes, unknowingly demeaning myself in an ultimately sweet, naive way. A couple times I claimed friends were “people that walked out on their bills” and the head waitresses could see through my bullshit, calling me on it as I stammered a denial. I remember the kitchen people being much more crass and vaguely criminal, and I’m pretty sure a lot of them smoked pot and received BJs in the walk-in freezer. The dishwashers were less talkative; almost scarier in a way. And the managers were always fat white men who sweated and leered and hid in the back when it got slammed on the floor.
I also remember a few tables, with semi-respectable middle-aged people telling me I was the best waiter they ever had. Which is a weird thing when you’re quite pimply and poorly-toothed and unaware of concepts such as self-respect or -worth or -love. Also, one time, I spilled an entire strawberry shake on a likely-8-month-old baby. The parents were remarkably cool, but that was pretty bad; a little girl with bow and pink gellatinous shake covering 70% of her still-forming body. And always the horrible tips–5-10% as standard; one of the things I truly despise about the Midwest and Midwesterners, along with burying secrets and general life-apathy.
One meager treat for myself, which I later applied to every other food-service job I ever worked (McDonalds, Taco Bell), was to make myself excessive employee meals, in this case Shake-monstrosities of mythic proportions, after EVERY shift. And I also discovered a true love in Steak N’ Shake chili, which is as simple and un-spicy as a prude like me prefers. When coupled with oyster crackers, Ross is in hog-heaven!

I worked this job on two non-consecutive occasions; for 6 months in Fall 2000 and for 3 months in Fall 2001, each time followed by stints with the Missouri Department of Taxation as a data entry clerk for state returns. And ever since, I’ve had a soft spot for Steak N’ Shake that is otherwise unexplainable.
Cut to 2012 in New York City; this is not the Steak N’ Shake I know.
The so called “Steak N’ Shake Signature” is operating with maybe 1/6th the menu I remember; they have burgers (no triples), shakes, fries (no cheese) and chili (only cups) and that’s about it. Also, there are two 4-seat tables; the rest are supposed to stand at red bars which are lined in various odd corners, maybe 5 or 6 in total. In a space where there could be more seating/bar space, there’s a weird picture of young Ali hued green, like a lazy, artless Warhol. They also close at midnight and don’t serve breakfast. I’ll credit them for having a bathroom, and there is futuristic self-service with sodas, so you can keep space-blasting refills at no additional cost, but most of the “updates” seem poorly conceived.
I can’t believe I’m saying this, but the “Signature” sort of diminishes the idea and value of Steak N’ Shake. The NYC Olive Garden, and Applebees and TGI Fridays are almost exact duplicates of their Midwestern versions; eating in Times Square Ruby Tuesday’s is exactly like eating in Kansas or Indiana Ruby Tuesday’s, except for the gouged prices, doormen/bouncers and varied ethnicities of its patrons. Why would you try to rebrand a Midwestern-fake-retro-diner as a sleek, modern burger closet with 40 sq. ft of eating space and “sexily-skirted-and-booted” waitresses?
McDonald’s has a few “sophisticated” NYC locations (read: trying to “starbucks” the look a few of their locations with future chairs and translucent bar-chitecture), and it feels similarly dissonant. There’s something extra-hollow about trying to inject class or modernity into an inherently second or third-rate fast-food joint; I much prefer the genuine, disappointing article. You can put boots and a skirt on a Wal-Mart greeter, but that wouldn’t make it “New York”.
On the bright side, I can get a cup of Steak N’ Shake chili for $3.37 in the most expensive city in America, so I guess not all is lost!
One can’t conceive of all in life that has been taken for granted until they refurbish your Steak N’ Shake; where have you gone, paper hat…









